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Shish Kabob Grill, the Middle Eastern joint located across from the State Capitol, received a mixed review this week from Gretchen Kurtz, Westword's restaurant critic. Kurtz pointed out the initial off-putting vibe of this casual eatery but charged readers to move past those first feelings and try the food created by Syrian-born cook Mariam Ali. The gyros stuffed with thick meat and the over-lemony tabbouleh did not impress Kurtz, but the silky hummus, the plump and golden chickpea patties filling the falafel sandwich featuring, as well as the shawerma featuring nicely spiced, tender chicken were deserving of praises. Another sure winner was the Turkish coffee, made the traditional way, with powdered beans mixed with cardamom and boiled. [Westword]