This week, Gaetano's, the newly remodeled staple Italian restaurant in North Denver, was the subject of the Denver Post restaurant review. The newspaper's restaurant critic, Bill Porter, appreciated the smart space redesign, terrific cocktails, and chef Chris Cina's menu revamp that now includes some northern Italian touches. While the critic found the marinara to lack luster, he recommended the carbonara and lasagna. Porter was unimpressed with the excessive glorification of the mobster thuggish culture behind the history of the restaurant. Give him the canoli, keep the kitsch, Porter demanded. [DP]
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