Denver Post critic William Porter awards two stars today to La Merise, a classic French spot in Cherry Creek that "offers an experience Escoffier himself would approve." The nine month-old restaurant is helmed by chef Scott Hurnham (an alum of Sacre Bleu and Mateo), and he does right by the standards:
The day's foie gras came in silver-dollar discs, silky and unctuous...Escargots were a classic take on the dish. Imported French snails — no American snails need apply — were plump and baked in a garlic-herb butter...Beef bourguignon was masterful, a worthy version of the dish that Julia Child famously featured in "Mastering the Art of French Cooking." This was beef stew gone to heaven, with deep dark flavors, and even on a warm summer evening it made you pine for winter.Bonus: great service, good wine, and live music. [DP]
THE ELSEWHERE: Kathleen St. John of pens her Girl Walks into a Bar column on Fuel Cafe and loves its patio and friendly spirit, The Denver Post's Kristen Browning-Blas finds a plain room and not so plain food at Pub 17 in the Grand Hyatt, Matthew Schniper of the Colorado Springs Independent has a full on rave for the surprisingly excellent King Curry near the Peterson Air Force Base.
THE BLOGS: Denver on a Spit loves the sandwiches a Curban spot Frijoles Colorado Cuban Cafe, 5280 reviews the Codename: Ron Burgundy at Funkwerks Brewing Company, and Cafe Society's Veggie Girl rounds up some of the vegetarian options at Yak and Yeti.