William Porter Awards Four Stars to The Squeaky Bean

William Porter douses The Squeaky Bean in affection in today's Denver Post review, awarding the reincarnated restaurant with four, very bright stars. The Denver Post has not awarded a restaurant with four stars since the rating system was revised in 2005. "I will say this right up front: This is one of the finest restaurants to open in Denver in a long time. Beyond the vibrant space and polished service, the food is exceptional." Porter raves that executive chef Max MacKissock has raised the bar on Mile High dining:

The dishes that emerge struck me as much for what they were not as for what they were. MacKissock's food is masterful, but not show-offy. Dishes are not overcooked or, just as important, overworked. Ingredients are superb, but they feel only lightly enhanced, allowing their essence — especially in the case of vegetables — to shine through.

Sitting high with four stars, The Squeaky Bean, according to Porter, should be a dining destination for anyone who's serious about food. [DP]

As mentioned yesterday, 5280's Shari Caudron awards Boulder's Oak at Fourteenth with three stars in the August issue, commending executive chef/co-owner Steven Redzikowski's authority with wood-fire cooking. "The wood of choice? Oak, of course. It’s as if Redzikowski is saying anyone can turn a knob. But cooking with oak in the middle of the city? That’s an achievement. [5280]

THE ELSEWHERE: Also in print this month, 5280's Julie Dugdale calls the Crawling Crab on Federal Boulevard a "buried treasure" and nothing short of brilliant. The food proved not only affordable, but everything was "a straight-from-the-sea, lick-your-fingers-good mess." [5280]

Over in Boulder, Eric Skokan's new restaurant Bramble & Hare gets a nod from Denver Post columnist Kathleen St. John, who writes fondly of the bar program. "If it's a drink you're after, belly up to the bar. B&H's booze list is tightly edited, but with good variety." [DP]

THE BLOGS: Denveater writes why Duo is reliable dining destination: "Smart yet sensual food; ever-changing yet grounded menu. Duo’s got nuance down-pat." Denver on a Spit reminisces about the closing of El Olvido in hopes the owners will open elsewhere. "Because where else in Denver are you going for carne en su jugo?" And Mike No pens a small review of Pinche Taqueria and calls it the best Mexican food for the price in central Denver.