Welcome to Front & Center, a series highlighting front of the house professionals in Denver restaurants. Right now, 5280 food editor Amanda Faison writes about Mark Dym, owner and jack of all trades at Marco's Coal-Fired Pizzeria:
Whenever I think of a friendly face in Denver's dining scene, I think of Mark Dym, the owner of Marco's Coal-Fired Pizzeria. Sure, the Neapolitan-style pizza—thin, chewy, with a charred crust—draws me to the shop, but it's Dym who adds that extra touch. He's everywhere: in the kitchen, manning the pizza oven, but mostly, he walks the floor and interfaces with his guests.
And that's just it, you don't feel like a diner at Marco's, you feel like a guest. Dym asks more than the perfunctory (and often awkward) "And how are things this evening?" He genuinely wants to know if you're enjoying your meal and what you think about the pizza. He remembers your kids' names and the last time you visited. And, offer a glimmer of interest and he'll give you a behind-the-scenes tour of the bags of silk-like 00 flour, the giant Hobart mixer that once fell down the back stairs, and the 1,000° pizza ovens. Dym's enthusiasm is contagious — which makes Marco's an easy choice when I want an enjoyable, don't-have-to-think-too-much dinner out.
—Amanda Faison, 5280
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Mark Dym [Photo: Adam Larkey]