Westword's restaurant critic, Gretchen Kurtz, stays in the same two blocks of LoDo after reviewing the Kitchen Denver and Lucky Pie, this time taking on Red Star Deli. Kurtz looks at the physical space operated by longtime Denver chef James Mazzio from a practical perspective and wonders if stairs - up or down- can be the kiss of death for a restaurant.
Red Star Deli has no storefront, no patio, no visible tables and only a small sandwich board propped on the sidewalk to signal its existence - so foot traffic is not naturally high. Kurtz praises the meat-centric sandwiches- from the pastrami to the the BLT, the smoked chicken to the cubano - without much reservation. Kurtz issues a warning to vegetarians, however- this menu is not particularly friendly to the non-meat-eaters.
THE BLOGS: UseRealButter raves about two dishes she had at Mizuna: the hamachi crudo with edamame and shishito peppers and the classic Bonanno lobster mac and cheese. Denveater encourages Denver diners to try out the adventurous charcuterie at Colt and Gray, including the head cheese or more sanitized name - porchetta di testa.
· All Red Star Deli Coverage [EDen]
· The meat-centric Red Star Deli is a rising star [Westword]
· Some Colorado Lovin' [UseRealButter]
· Dish of the Week: Porchetta di testa at Colt & Gray [Denveater]
— Andra Zeppelin