Old Major, the new LoHi hot spot restaurant opened by chef Justin Brunson, received three and a half stars in a review by the Denver Post. These are high marks from restaurant critic William Porter that arrive soon after Old Major's February 24 opening. [Porter famously awarded a perfect four stars to the Squeaky Bean last summer only five weeks after the LoDo restaurant opened.]
Porter swoons over the beautiful and well-equipped kitchen, praises the exemplary service, and appreciates the fun vibe of the place. In a playful tone, he warns diners that they may want to hit the ATM before coming in for dinner as the prices are steeper than average. He also highlights the buzz around town created by the Old Major opening, comparing it the hysteria generally associated with Justin Bieber walking into a junior-high cafeteria.
On to the food: Porter finds the salads to be thoughtful and enjoyed the lobster hot plate. He is less impressed with the pork butter but calls the smoked-fish plate a knockout. The entrees are deemed by the critic "designed to feed hulking Iowa farmhands." Porter enjoys the whole spring chicken, three-way rabbit, and pork schnitzel, but is most impressed with the nose-to-tail plate, which he describes as "a serious piece of pig worship, plenty for two adults and nearly enough for one teenage boy."
· Dining Review: Old Major in Denver's LoHI Neighborhood [DP]
· Old Major: the Menu, Space, and Kitchen, Opening Today [EDen]
· Hogshead Brewery on 54 Imperial Gallons of Beer and More [EDen]
· Atomic Cowboy and Denver Biscuit Company Coming to the Crimson Canary Space [EDen]