Two Critics, One Restaurant: The District

Call it either dumb luck or an editorial coincidence. No matter which way you spin it, both William Porter of the Denver Post and Gretchen Kurtz of Westword dined at and wrote about the District this week. Their experiences, however, couldn't be more different.

The Denver Post says that the District is already "in the zone." The kitchen is committed to providing seasonal food, and has an ever-evolving menu. Critic William Porter noted the Uptown restaurant's ability to offer fare that mixes convention with creativity. The restaurant, he said, has an accessible, laid-back vibe with a staff of friendly and well-trained waiters. Dishes worth noting include the charcuterie plate, a cuban smoked squash (a vegetarian offering), and a "most and tender" roasted pork tenderloin. The menu's only disappointment is the pulled pork sandwich that was "unaccountably dry" and came as big chunks and thick slices, as opposed to traditional pulled pork. Diners can enjoy brunch at The District, too. The big selling point? House-cured pork, lamb, and duck bacons.

The District didn't fare so well for Westword. Critic Gretchen Kurtz summed up her experience by saying the "music wasn't loud enough to draw attention away from the problems with the food." The Cuban smoked squash, which Porter highlighted in his review, did not live up to Kurtz's expectations. Her expectations continued to not be met, as she described the mashed potatoes "gummy" and compared the gravy to béchamel. In general, food wasn't flavored enough and dishes were missing important ingredients. Kurtz echoed Porter's thoughts on the disappointing pulled pork sandwich. Despite her (very) negative experience, Kurtz noted that the owners have recognized the District's missteps, and are working to address the issues. Scott Szczodrowski who was just promoted the head chef last month, is working on a new menu.