There is a certain irreverence that is unique to the Squeaky Bean. From the Sunday bingo brunch to the shrine to newly deceased celebrities, complete with a special limited edition cocktail created in their honor, the LoDo restaurant owned by Johnny Ballen likes to keep things light, make fun of itself, and provoke at least a little bit.
The newest episode of quirkiness at the Bean is the addition of two menu items whose names were prompted by a recent review from the Denver Post: William's 2-Star Porter, a custom beer created with Bull & Bush, and the shareable $45 William's 2-Star Porter-House.
Less than two weeks ago, restaurant reviewer William Porter of the Denver Post bestowed two stars on the restaurant whose kitchen is now helmed by chef Theo Adley. This review came some 19 months after a four-star one at a time when the Bean was only a few weeks old and its chef was Max MacKissock.
"Restaurants come and go, but here's hoping this one stays," Porter concluded in his latest review of the Bean. The new Porter-style brew on the menu seems to echo that line of thinking. The steak, also named after the reviewer and respective stars, is a 24 oz. Duroc pork steak served with castelfranco, sunchoke, and pepper marmalade that is suggested as a good complement to the beer.
There are more new items on the menu at the Bean and they are just as cheeky. The bar launched the Drinks About Nothing, a selection of Seinfeld-inspired cocktails that capture the fresh, bright flavors of spring, such as the Cerénity Now, crafted with Cerén vodka, Dimmi, and a house grapefruit liqueur and a Cosmo Kramer made with Spring 44 vodka, house lemon liqueur, and cranberry juice. There is also the J. Peterman Pisco Sour that comes accompanied by a rather long-winded back story, much like the sitcom's character, complete with mules and an Amazon tribe. Other new spring dishes on the menu include Cape Cod Fluke with kaffir lime, tamarind, and hyacinth salt and Moules and Marbles with mussels, new potato, and uni mayo.
· The Squeaky Bean Gets Reviewed By the Denver Post, With Different Results [EDen]
· Bingo Brunch at the Squeaky Bean [EDen]
· Shrine Cocktails: Charlie Trotter [EDen]
· The Squeaky Bean: New Menu, New Outlook [DP]
· Mass Exodus at the Squeaky Bean: Chef Max MacKissock Leaves [EDen]
· Original Squeaky Bean Review; Summer 2012 [DP]