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Greek Excursion: The Early Word on Volta

Photo: Grace Boyle

Last October, husband-and-wife team Jon and Eleni Deering opened Volta, a Mediterranean-style restaurant in Boulder. Eleni, who is Greek, and Jon, an industry veteran, had executive chef Thomas d'Aquin, formerly of Axios Estiatorio, as their opening chef. Chef Chris Canales is now helming the stoves at the restaurant. With this talent in place, is the restaurant worth dining at this Boulder hideaway? Find out now with the early word on Volta.

The Plate Smashing Good News: In the Denver Post, restaurant critic William Porter declares the star among Volta's dinner entrees is the braised lamb. According to Porter, the tender meat achieves smoky depths of succulence and hits just the right Greek notes. But he advises against hurling crockerty at the wall, taverna fashion, all the same. [DP]

The Calamari Comebacker News: Volta's Calamari was featured on Zagat's Best Thing We Ate. Ruth Tobias says that this fairly traditional Mediterranean specialty is elevated by crushed almonds, red peppers, peperroncina nage and pickled onions, making it reason enough to seek out the Boulder hideaway. [Zagat]

The Boulder Heat News: Volta also made Zagat's list of the hottest new restaurants in Denver and Boulder, thanks to its excellent farm to table ingredients, daily changing menu and Sunday night family-style dinners. Highlights: gnocchi with housemade rabbit sausage and ricotta in a restina reduction, heirloom varietals from Abbondanza Farms, and Sunday night specials centered on legs of lamb and whole-fish platters. [Zagat]

The Keeping It Real News: Westword food editor Lori Midson interviewed Volta executive chef Chris Canales, and when asked about ingredients, Canales says that he doesn't believe in putting trendy things in a dish just to brag about them. And while the restaurant does source organic, local ingredients, Canales' favorites are fresh, seasonal fruits and vegetables. [Westword]

The Enchanting Patio News: Claire Walter of the blog Culinary Colorado believes Volta inherited one of Boulder's most enchanting patios, which many diners enjoyed in space's previous life as Italian restaurant Alba. [Culinary Colorado]

The Vegetarian Respect News: Over on Foursquare, one diner reports that while meatless offerings aren't specifically called out on the menu, Volta goes above and beyond to take great care of vegetarians. [Foursquare]

The Olympian Achievement News: At the Daily Camera, dining critic Clay Fong gave Volta high marks for his server's spot-on recommendations, and hospitable yet unobtrusive service. While some dishes suffered from uneven seasoning, Fong proclaims the locally raised Long's Peak lamp chop was one of the best he's had in years. It's clean richness and perfect rare temperature vaulted the dish to near-Olympian heights. [Daily Camera]

The No Substitution News: At Eat Drink Boulder, blogger Allan Parr took issue with the chef's refusal to allow any substitutions or even leave certain ingredients off. While Parr enjoyed the majority of Volta's dishes, he points out that some diners may have specific dietary restrictions or simply be trying to order more healthy foods when dining out. [Eat Drink Boulder]

The Come Sail Away News: Boulder Weekly explains that the word Volta is a latin term meaning excursion. The article goes on to emphasize that the name is fitting: the seafood dishes are so authentic that one could easily be convinced the dining experience is taking place on a catamaran off the coast of Santorini. [Boulder Weekly]

The Position Of Trust News: Hungry In Boulder blogger Christine Vazquez notes that Volta co-owner and sommelier Jon Deering has provided front of house and wine program leaderships at many of Boulder's most beloved restaurants, including SALT and Black Cat. Apparently his time there was well-spent. Vazquez reports that Deering has curated an impressive wine list comprised almost entirely of biodynamic and organic bottlings. And aside from Kendra Anderson at PastaVino, Vazquez declares she has never trusted a sommelier more than she does Deering. [Hungry In Boulder]

By Jeff Jenks

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2480 Canyon Bl, Boulder, CO