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Less Is More: The Early Word On Bistro Barbès

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 Bistro Barbès
Bistro Barbès
Photo: Danielle Lirette

Bistro Barbès opened last month as a quaint 30-seater in Park Hill, helmed by chef Jon Robbins, previously of Gypsy Kitchen and Mizuna. Robbins is serving up classic French cuisine with Spanish, North African, and Middle Eastern influences, all in a tightly edited but constantly evolving menu of just 12 items, plus two desserts. So, does this little restaurant with big ambitions breathe new life into this neighborhood? Find out with the early news on Bistro Barbès

The Park Hill Homer News: Ex-Mizuna chef de cuisine Jon Robbins hit it out of the park with Bistro Barbès, according to Zagat restaurant critic Ruth Tobias. In light this wee French-Mediterranean charmer and other recent undersized openings like The Plimoth and To The Wind Bistro, Tobias hopes it marks the beginning of a trend toward small, focused, sophisticated eateries in underserved neighborhoods. [Zagat]

The Culinary Oasis News: With the arrival of Bistro Barbès to Park Hill and Abbey Tavern before that, this area is becoming less of a food desert, according to Westword. The publication got an inside look at the neighborhood-comfortable restaurant and its ambitious cuisine. [Café Society]

The Spice Whisperer News: The dishes here are fragrant with harissa, turmeric, and baharat, reflecting chef Jon Robbins time living in the multicultural Parisian neighborhood of Barbès, reports food editor Amanda M. Faison at 5280. Regarding that baharat: Robbins and his crew make their own blend, which speaks of cardamom, coriander, cumin and turmeric, according to Faison. [5280]

The They Like It News: Yelpers have collectively deemed Bistro Barbès worthy of four stars. Most reviews note very good food despite somewhat small portions in comparison to price. Friendly service and cool decor were also commonly found in the mostly favorable comments. [Yelp]

The Like A Good Neighbor News: Chef Jon Roberts is embracing the cozy vibe of his Park Hill bistro, choosing not to promote the restaurant in order to allow enough space for neighborhood clientele and not crowd it out, according to Goutaste.com. [Goutaste.com]

The One Door Closes, Another Opens News: Turns out the shuttering of neighborhood favorite Latka Love and opening of Bistro Barbès was bittersweet, according to DevouringDenver.com. The food and restaurant blog had high marks for the new Park Hill eatery's elevated bistro fare, including escargots bourguignon, Moroccan potatoes and beef bavette au poivre. [DevouringDenver.com]

· Chef Jon Robbins Opens Bistro Barbès [EDen]
· 9 Best Strawberry Rhubarb Desserts to Try Now [EDen]

5021 E 28th Ave, Denver, CO

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