The Curtis Club Disappoints; To the Wind Rocks; More

The Curtis Club, a nine month old urban saloon in Ballpark, did not make the right impression on restaurant critic Stacey Brugeman. In her one star review of the trendy eatery, the 5280 Magazine writer recounted many errors in service and several less-than-impressive dishes. On one occasion, a lackadaisical lunch waitress showed "visible remains of the previous night's consumption." On another, a salad of chickpeas, frisée, pitted Castelvetrano olives, and julienned carrots, seemed more like the odds and ends one might throw together in a pinch than a composed restaurant dish. One thing she liked: the Curly Wolf, "a well-made cocktail of rye whiskey, rhubarb liqueur, sweet vermouth, and almond syrup."

To The Wind, the tiny bistro that opened this spring on East Colfax, won the heart of reviewer Gretchen Kurtz of Westword. The tables are snug, the menu boasts grown up ingredients and dishes, and the energy in the open kitchen is positive and calm even during busy times. Kurtz enjoyed the escargots used as empanada filling, with garlic, leeks and cream cheese, the steak over onion purée with green beans and Gorgonzola, and the cavatelli studded with fava beans, mushrooms and kale in a meatless carbonara. Don't miss the desserts, executed by pastry chef Leanne Adamson who owns the restaurant along with husband and chef Royce Oliveira.

Reinvention is the name of the game at P17. Chef and owner Mary Nguyen reimagined the nine year old restaurant from a Vietnamese eatery into a French bistro. Restaurant reviewer Bill Porter found the corn dogs to be out of place, but really appreciated the savory tomato tart and the grilled squid. With knowledgeable staff and accommodating staff, a solid wine list, and well-crafted cocktails, the casual eatery received two and a half stars.

· False Start: The Curtis Club [5280]
· To the Wind Bistro Is a Breath of Fresh Air on East Colfax [Westword]
· P17 Reinvents Itself As a Neighborhood Bistro [DP]
· Denver's 38 Essential Restaurants [EDen]