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Sarto's Gets The Thumbs Up; The Bistro at Stapleton Shows Promise

It's all about ambitious neighborhood eateries in this week's reviews.

Adam Larkey

Sarto's, the new Italian eatery in the Jefferson Park neighborhood, was awarded three stars by the Denver Post in this week's review. Critic Bill Porter noted the "nifty décor" where detailed "touches abound, including a back room with a battery of vintage sewing machines in glass cabinets." He praised chef Brian Laird's warm soup of root vegetables, the pheasant and octopus salads, and the house-made tagliatelle carbonara. The star was "a seared duck breast. Paired alongside a confit duck leg, the sliced meat sat atop a pool of balsamic-infused fig sauce swimming with a trio of syrupy, roasted figs and onions."

The Bistro at Stapleton may still have some kinks to work out but the neighborhood eatery is certainly becoming a community gathering spot, Westword observed. The decor is stylish and comfortable with gray-blue wainscoting and flickering candles on wood tables, attracting guests who want to share a glass of wine and beer more than those ready for a meal. With a small and skimpily outfitted kitchen, chef Cristino Griego shines on some of the dishes like the burrata plate and the hummus, but falls short on others like the roast chicken and French onion soup.