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Potager, Saturday at 7:30 P.M.

Welcome to a special Classics Week edition of Eater Scenes, a series in which Eater photographers visit some of the city's great restaurants to capture them at a certain point in the day. Chef Rippeto allowed Eater to peek in her dining room on a Saturday night.

Before farm-to-table was the thing to do, chef Teri Rippeto opened Potager. With an eclectic decor — unfinished walls, a large cement bar, wood elements throughout, and soft lighting — Potager is unusually inviting and cozy, lacking pretension, almost showing its vulnerability.

Just as there is not much fuss about the decor, there are no reservations taken. Walk in and a friendly hostess will seat you or take you name if there is a wait. There is magic in the air at Potager — maybe it's the space, maybe the waitstaff, maybe the food. One thing is certain: The combination charms and will have you return for more and wanting to linger.

The open kitchen blurs the dining room line and invites a shared experience. Voyeur guests can see the team of cooks that seem to be in total synch with one another. The smells of roasted chicken or a fish special will waft delicately through the space awakening cravings.

Before you know it, you'll find yourself seated at a table draped with a pressed white tablecloth in the company of a helpful waitperson. If this is not your first visit at Potager, the odds are you will recognize the waitstaff from previous visits and they will recognize you. In a world where service staff moves around from one restaurant to the next, the front of the house team at Potager remains unchanged for what seems like years. Here's one of the possible reasons why: Potager takes two long breaks, one in the winter time and a summer vacation each at least two weeks long.

Bread from the Denver Bread Company will arrive at you table and butter at the right spreading temperature will be placed in front of you. And then the time comes to make some decisions: What to order? The seasonal menu changes monthly and there are daily specials. All dishes are rooted in some seasonal element which is why Potager really sings in the summer and early fall months when produce is at its peak. But fear not, soothing and rich fall and winter dishes are satisfying in their own right. No matter the season and its accompanying sides and dressings, the roasted chicken is a star and so are the mussels and the cheese souffle. Always save room for dessert and if you can only have one, get the chocolate pudding.

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