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The Good Son Stuck in Dress Rehearsal; Big Country BBQ Shines with Authenticity

See what the critics have to say about these new Denver restaurants.

The Good Son
The Good Son
Adam Larkey

The Good Son, the newest venture from the U Baron Group (formerly Udi's), received a rough review from Westword's Gretchen Kurtz this week. The critic did praise the departure from previous concepts housed in the space (Udi's Pizza Cafe and Silvi's Kitchen), stressing that the Good Son has a distinct aesthetic to it. She gave the thumbs up to the beer list and friendly neighborhood feel. But, while she saw the signature Detroit-style pizza as the star of the show, she dinged it for being overly saturated in oil. The smoked mozzarella pizza did not taste smokey, some pies were entirely burned, vegetables were pooled in water, kale salad was wilted and sad. Combine some of these unsavory elements of the dining experience with inattentive service, and The Good Son appeared as though it could use more practice after being open for almost a year and a half.

Darren Byrd's food truck-turned-brick-and-mortar-restaurant in Sunnyside, Big Country BBQ, impressed food critic William Porter the Denver Post's write-up. Off the bat, Porter praised the homey, Western-inspired space. Porter liked the pulled chicken, but claims that the pork and beef dishes were the stars of the show. He found the pork ribs to be an exercise in balance between fatty and lean, moist and fall-off-the-bone tender. The brisket showcased the mark of the true pit master with its delicate smoke ring and the burnt ends were a favorite. Of the two sauces offered, it seemed the smoked jalapeño and coca-cola variety was lacking in sweetness and viscosity, but the North Carolina peppery vinegar blend was on-point and true to style.

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