Hedge Row’s Wood-Fired Flavors Deliver While the Price Point Divides Diners

Cherry Creek further cements its status as a Denver dining destination with the addition of Hedge Row. The American bistro launched its second location in the Coda Building along Steele Street this past July as a causal tribute to local food supply chains. The team behind the popular Boulder restaurant The Kitchen centers the new restaurant around farm-fresh fare and wood-fired preparations. The Hedge Row kitchen plays with rustic dishes throughout its all-day lunch and dinner menu. While the familiar flavors of The Kitchen’s tomato soup and sticky toffee pudding pop up on the Hedge Row menu, dishes such as the mole-braised short rib and cookie jar stand out on their own. A second Hedge Row location is slated to open in Indianapolis this year — but what do critics think of the inaugural establishment? Here’s what local critics and online reviewers say about Hedge Row:

Critical Hits: 303 Magazine dished out their favorite dishes in a “what to order” feature this past July. Noting that the restaurant’s name is an homage to the farm that The Kitchen sourced their ingredients from in 2004, 303 emphasized the menu’s array of vegetable and appetizer selections. Stand outs such as the crispy fish lettuce “tacos,” smashed cucumbers, roasted carrots, and summer beets satisfy the palate so well that “we could be easily satisfied from ordering off the Snack & Share and Vegetable sections alone.” Dinner “packs a punch” of its own with the Colorado dry-aged New York strip steak and wood-roasted half chicken. The critics recommend that diners end their meal on a lighter and sweeter note and order the lemon strawberry parfait, topped with pistachio crumble and frozen yogurt. [303 Magazine]

Suave Sustainability: The style and finesse that founders Hugo Matheson and Kimbal Musk cultivated at The Kitchen and Next door extends to Hedge Row, according to Zagat. The restaurant's mounting ceilings, exhibition-style kitchen, and buzzing bar fuel a sense of vibrancy and vitality. In a “first look” feature, critic Ruth Tobias noted the strong “family resemblance” throughout the restaurant’s style and “real food for everyone” motto. The Cherry Creek spot seems to be a charming meeting point between the owner’s previous ventures and is “refined enough for a Friday night date, casual enough for a family outing.” The drink program, while “simple,” doesn’t bore the diner. From various local craft beer options to the “classic and breezy” selection of cocktails, Hedge Row’s drinks — try the Aperol Spritz — are “perfect for an afternoon spent soaking up the sun on the patio.” [Zagat]

Fan Favorites: Facebook reviewers applaud Hedge Row’s selection of dishes. The two most negative reviews expressed frustration over portion size and price. One diner remarked that she was sick of the “fake farm to table facade” and “mediocre management.” However, other reviewers were charmed by bold flavors packed into the dishes. Multiple reviewers praised the roasted porchetta sandwich, pan seared red snapper, and ahi tuna ceviche. One diner raved that every item they sampled was “fresh and tasty.” [Facebook]

Nit Picking Over Price Point: Hedge Row’s splash onto the Denver dining scene inspired local and visiting diners to visit Cherry Creek. While many Trip Advisor users commented upon the “fresh and clean” atmosphere, most walked away with a higher bill than anticipated, “even for Cherry Creek.” One diner found that everything tasted only “ok” and another thought the portion sizes appeared “min[u]scule.” Though the restaurant emitted a “casual feel,” the prices reflected those of a high-end steakhouse. A curt comment from August emphasized that a diner “shouldn’t have to spend $100 for two people to leave full.” [TripAdvisor]

• Hedge Row Starts Serving Farm Fresh American Fare in Cherry Creek [EDEN]