A throwback of a restaurant on Monday begins serving dinner in the neighborhood that once housed Denver’s Air Force base. Fittingly, Officers Club is a joint project by a pair of old-school industry men: chef Sterling Robinson (see also Billy’s Inn, Ernie’s, and North County) and Joe Vostrejs of City Street Investors and Larimer Associates. Their new restaurant has taken over the former Masterpiece Kitchen space at 84 Rampart Way in Lowry’s Hangar 2 development.
“We will not do anything pretentious here,” Robinson says. “You will not come in and see a handlebar mustache.” Instead, steakhouse wines at a steal, dishes such as the Big Boy Bacon Burger, and a dedicated bar menu with $12 to $16 dinner specials are all offered in a place that reads suburban Mad Men. Robinson hopes Officers Club will be a spot for a “grown-up cocktail,” a glass of wine, and a good date-night dinner in the neighborhood.
For inspiration, the 30-year industry vet looked to officers clubs past as well as to Midwest supper clubs and his own history at Western institutions such as Jimmy’s in Aspen. Generous portions, comfort dishes, and a communal setting are at the center of the concept. They’re presented alongside strong cocktails, a baby grand piano, and a patio with room for a live band on weekends. Officers Club will serve dinner only for its first two weeks, followed by lunch, brunch, and to-go service introduced throughout the summer.
Status: Officers Club is now open daily starting at 4 p.m. for dinner. The bar stays open until midnight on weekends, and happy hour is offered nightly from 4 to 5 p.m. and 9 p.m. until closing. For menus and more information, visit the website.