clock menu more-arrow no yes mobile

The Guide to Drinking Saké in Denver

Because there is life beyond beer, cocktails, and wine

View as Map

Saké is to rice wine as apples are to oranges. Or rather, saké is to rice wine as apples are to unicorns—because there’s no such thing as wine fermented from grain; wine is by definition a product of grapes. (Even "fruit wine" is a misnomer, if a convenient one.) Saké’s actually closer to rice beer—but close is no cigar, either, as the production method differs significantly.

So what is saké, then? Don’t ask the Japanese, because they’ll really complicate matters: according to John Gaunter in The Saké Handbook, the word "can refer to all alcoholic beverages in general." When they want to discuss the one brewed from fermented rice in particular, "the word nihonshu is used." Better just to call it yummy, yummy booze and be done with it.

Saké is, however, comparable to beer and wine when it comes to tasting, especially if you order it cold. (Though "warmed saké definitely has its appeal," writes Gauntner, most "premium saké is served slightly chilled" so you can "observe it unfolding and changing" as it approaches room temperature.) Assess it as you would any farmhouse ale or Chardonnay. What aromas and flavors do you detect: nuts, bread, flowers, fruits, herbs? Is it dry or sweet, acidic or bitter? How does it feel in your mouth—crisp, rough, viscous?

Of course, you’ve got as many opportunities to hone your palate as there are Japanese restaurants in Denver. If you can’t make The Birth of Saké screening and tasting at the Sie FilmCenter tomorrow, consider visiting a few of our favorite spots—budget and blowout—to immerse yourself in what you will never again call rice wine.

Read More
If you buy something or book a reservation from an Eater link, Vox Media may earn a commission. See our ethics policy.
If you seek a sacred commune with your saké, you’ve come to the wrong place. Unfiltered, fruity nigori in pink bottles; unpasteurized, fortified and full-throated honjozo namazake in yellow cans: Ace is all about the funky, easy-drinking stuff for washing down a plate of tiger wings in style.
Adam Larkey
The short but sweet list at Frank Bonanno’s noodle bar leaves just enough room to choose your own adventure. Kick back with a poppy sparkling saké, compare and contrast different styles with a flight, or treat yourself to a bottle of junmai ginjo (unfortified saké featuring rice polished so that only 60% or less of the grain remains), which noted expert W. Blake Gray calls “the most wine-like” category.
Facebook
We’re not saying happy hour at Lon Symensma’s Southeast Asian tavern is for saké connoisseurs. We’re just saying $1 shots and $3 bombs are nothing for anyone to sniff at, ever.
Courtesy of Cho77

Izakaya Den

Copy Link
Well, duh. For sheer variety as well as quality, it’s hard to beat Izakaya Den (or Sushi Den, take your pick), especially considering the savvy of the staff when it comes to recommendations. Of course the bar makes some killer saké cocktails as well
Adam Larkey
The same goes for Ototo, naturally, whose list is a bit quirkier than that of its Den siblings; though it's well-annotated, for a guided tour of the highlights, it’s worth the outlay to attend one of the saké dinners held here monthly.
Facebook

Sushi Ronin

Copy Link
As this newcomer is already earning major kudos for its attention to detail, you bet the well-trained staff can walk you through its carefully edited selection with ease.
Facebook

Sushi Sasa

Copy Link
Along with the Den group, LoHi's Sasa’s arguably got the highest-end selection in town—eclectic for its size and generally splurge-worthy.
Experts will tell you that the traditional wooden sipping boxes called masu interfere with your ability to judge the saké therein. But just as the aesthetics of drinking Champagne from a flute sometimes outweigh your concern for evaluating it, so masu have their time and place—and that place is amid the charms of Tokio, which also provides better range and bang for the buck than most.
Andra Zeppelin
Whether it’s a just-for-fun novelty like plum-infused saké, a tokubetsu (“special”) find made from estate-grown rice or a top-of-the-line junmai daiginjo (in which the grains have been milled down to 50% or less of their original size), Zengo does a nice job of annotating its offerings in concise layman’s terms.
Facebook

Matsuhihsa

Copy Link
This stunning sushi emporium launched in Cherry Creek with its top notch fish and hospitality. The sake list ranges from easy mellow warm junmai that goes for $30 for the small carafe to the floral and fruity 35 Dai-Ginjo that goes for $120 for the same quantity.

Loading comments...

Ace

If you seek a sacred commune with your saké, you’ve come to the wrong place. Unfiltered, fruity nigori in pink bottles; unpasteurized, fortified and full-throated honjozo namazake in yellow cans: Ace is all about the funky, easy-drinking stuff for washing down a plate of tiger wings in style.
Adam Larkey

Bones

The short but sweet list at Frank Bonanno’s noodle bar leaves just enough room to choose your own adventure. Kick back with a poppy sparkling saké, compare and contrast different styles with a flight, or treat yourself to a bottle of junmai ginjo (unfortified saké featuring rice polished so that only 60% or less of the grain remains), which noted expert W. Blake Gray calls “the most wine-like” category.
Facebook

CHO77

We’re not saying happy hour at Lon Symensma’s Southeast Asian tavern is for saké connoisseurs. We’re just saying $1 shots and $3 bombs are nothing for anyone to sniff at, ever.
Courtesy of Cho77

Izakaya Den

Well, duh. For sheer variety as well as quality, it’s hard to beat Izakaya Den (or Sushi Den, take your pick), especially considering the savvy of the staff when it comes to recommendations. Of course the bar makes some killer saké cocktails as well
Adam Larkey

Ototo

The same goes for Ototo, naturally, whose list is a bit quirkier than that of its Den siblings; though it's well-annotated, for a guided tour of the highlights, it’s worth the outlay to attend one of the saké dinners held here monthly.
Facebook

Sushi Ronin

As this newcomer is already earning major kudos for its attention to detail, you bet the well-trained staff can walk you through its carefully edited selection with ease.
Facebook

Sushi Sasa

Along with the Den group, LoHi's Sasa’s arguably got the highest-end selection in town—eclectic for its size and generally splurge-worthy.

Tokio

Experts will tell you that the traditional wooden sipping boxes called masu interfere with your ability to judge the saké therein. But just as the aesthetics of drinking Champagne from a flute sometimes outweigh your concern for evaluating it, so masu have their time and place—and that place is amid the charms of Tokio, which also provides better range and bang for the buck than most.
Andra Zeppelin

Zengo

Whether it’s a just-for-fun novelty like plum-infused saké, a tokubetsu (“special”) find made from estate-grown rice or a top-of-the-line junmai daiginjo (in which the grains have been milled down to 50% or less of their original size), Zengo does a nice job of annotating its offerings in concise layman’s terms.
Facebook

Matsuhihsa

This stunning sushi emporium launched in Cherry Creek with its top notch fish and hospitality. The sake list ranges from easy mellow warm junmai that goes for $30 for the small carafe to the floral and fruity 35 Dai-Ginjo that goes for $120 for the same quantity.

Related Maps